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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 12:47 pm
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EDDIE W
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my next question.

do i need to remove the lower cowel to replace the oil filter?



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GØSVH......radio amateurs do it with frequency and sometimes all night.

if at first you don't succeed........GIVE UP !!
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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 12:52 pm
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Koxxy
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I did Eddie, just to make life easier



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Ian
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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 01:04 pm
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gogs11uk
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I didn't. As long as you can get a gripper tool round it you shouldn't need to take it off.



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:23 pm
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Silverfox
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I used one of those Alligator rubber strap thingies and didn't need to remove the cowl. But as Koxxy says it would make things easier to access.



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'06 GL1800 Comfort package model.
'76 GL1000 Executive model.
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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:31 pm
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Crezz
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No it is easy to get off with everything in situ. :th



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 04:42 pm
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EDDIE W
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i check it out tomorrow, i have tools for getting filters off,  but when i bought the oem filter for the shop i got a free tool aswell,



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GØSVH......radio amateurs do it with frequency and sometimes all night.

if at first you don't succeed........GIVE UP !!
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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 10:02 pm
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derek hendry
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in a sort of diferent light, it may be best to take it off anyway, you can then give it a good clean and is less likely to be a problem when you do need to take it off. i normally replace stock bolts with stainless as well, and off course the mandatory copper slip. But if its stuck already Eddie best left alone, it depends on if you ar egiving it a good clean up at the same time mate



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 Posted: Sat Jan 9th, 2010 10:27 pm
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gogs11uk
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I found the mounting bolt in the centre was an absolute bitch to undo. i ended up drilling the head of it and then working the remaining bolt loose with lusol and a set of Molegrips. Like Derek I replaced the bolt and greased it up just in case. While i had the cover of, I fitted a set of LED driving lamps. Anything to make me more noticable to the car drivers.



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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 07:19 am
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Silverfox
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Good point about those three bolts holding the lower cowl on, I can remember having a bitch of a job getting them out the first time and they are definitely ones I would change to stainless steel with copper slipped threads . :th

If your 1500 is an SE and has the cornering lights, or has after market driving kit fitted it is also the opportunity to check those for any signs of weather effects.

Also of course, the horns are located either side and I changed my "beepy" OEM ones for some small electric Fiamms, which were much louder. :b



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rblr.co.uk
Why do today what you can put off 'til tomorrow, when you can be out riding!!!
'06 GL1800 Comfort package model.
'76 GL1000 Executive model.
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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 07:48 am
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Jocke
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Silverfox wrote: Also of course, the horns are located either side and I changed my "beepy" OEM ones for some small electric Fiamms, which were much louder. :b

Well we´ve always known you´re a stickler for attention :BG:BG:BG



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Rode a GL 1200 I -85 for 18 years.
Updated to a GL 1200 LTD 2006.
Crasched the LTD july 2008.
Updated to a GL 1800 A2 august 2008.
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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 08:07 am
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EDDIE W
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when i bought this wing the po and i spend a good bit of time chatting, he said he stripped the bike down to the chassis had it powder coated and replaced every body panel, the bike is an 88 with the body of a 95se anniverary, so i dont know whether it has been in a bump, he just said he like the colour so he changed the body, as far as i have seen so far the majority of the bolts have been changed to stainless,i do have a job to do that he omitted to say, and that is the stearing stem bearing, which i have bought, i also have proggressive springs for the front forks, the springs are from the 1200 that i never put in, and progressive tell me they will fit, the only difference between the 12 and 15 springs is, the 1200 is one inch longer, iver got the tool made for the fork caps, all i need is gater bob with his brute strength to help me put the caps back in place, the po also said it may need front pads, which i have bought also, he said he did the back ones, but i have to take out the back wheel to have the valve stem replaced as mine is leaking on the seal, while thats off i may take off the left shocker spring and take it to a spring expert and and get it stretched a little and re-tempered, and i'll also check the rear pads aswell,  the po also gave me a new oem front left brake disc, the front brake does feel a little funnyso it could be warped a little, i have a dial gauge so i will check the disc, but i think its down the the steering stem bearings, just got to make the tool for that,    i been doing some work on slipperbobs bike, the only think i have to do on his now is the speedo gearbox on the wheel,ive had it of and in bits and give it a good greasing, and we cant check that out because he's snowed in, so i really havent that much to do on mine and will do a little more today



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GØSVH......radio amateurs do it with frequency and sometimes all night.

if at first you don't succeed........GIVE UP !!
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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 06:42 pm
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derek hendry
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sounds like you got lots on Eddie, on your mates bikes you can spin the front wheel off the ground to se eif its working okay



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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 07:26 pm
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EDDIE W
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the speedo itself is working fine derek, i put a new cable on it about six months ago, then a couple of weeks after the mini meet at davids place in waleshe got knocked off his bike, the local bike shop did some insurance work on it, then a couple of months later he started complaing about a funny screaming noise coming from the front of the bike, after i gave it a full servise and new timing belts, new throttle and choke cables, he came and said its still making this noise,  so i took it for a spin, got it up to 30 and this screeching noise came on, at first i thought the stereo was on but was not set to a frequency and was hetrodyning, so i went to turn it off,  it was off, so i opened the throttle and the noise stayed the same screaming sound  and stayed at the same constant pitch, i changed up and down the gears and it stayed the same, till i came to a stop,  i set off again and went home, where croc bob was waiting, he took it home and put it back in his garage, the following day i went round, put it on the main stand, started the bike and run it through the gears at around 4000 revs, changed up and down the gears as if i was riding, no noise appeared, it ran smooth all the time it was running on the mainstand, i got pff glanced down at the front wheel and noticed to speedo gearbox had moved round clockwise,( stood at the left side of the bike looking at the wheel) and the gearbox had shifted around about two inches making the cablepoint directly downwards and was on a tight u-bend, so i appeared we saw what the problem was, when i took the front wheel off all of the bolts was not tight and appeared not to have been torqued up,and was just nipped up, checked the wheel bearings, and was ok so i put more grease around them a gave the speedo gearbox a good greasing and oiled the cable, and put it back together, that afternoon he came round and gave me a proggress report,  it was still making a noise but not as loud, and he could put up with that, then it snowed and snowed and snowed, and welliebob is snowed in, so as soon as it clears up, ive disconnect the speedo cable at the wheel so he can try it without the cable in,and will just have to take it from there,      ive got mine stripped down now spent most of the day on it, got the forks off aswell i should have it back together next week then i can start on the back end,     my fingers are aching now



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GØSVH......radio amateurs do it with frequency and sometimes all night.

if at first you don't succeed........GIVE UP !!
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 Posted: Sun Jan 10th, 2010 08:32 pm
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Crezz
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Well spotted Eddie, keep up the good work.



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2002 GL1800A2 Orange Aug 09

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 Posted: Thu Jan 14th, 2010 05:29 pm
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EDDIE W
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i though the front felt a bit spongy,, i pulled out the front springs and drained the fluid, it was like black sludge that came out, tipped them upside and let them site into two pirex jugs, then pumped them upside quite a few time to a bit more out, and sat them over the jugs to drain further, the fluid didnt half stink, it was making me feel sick, anyway the amount of fluid that came out was 41/2 ounces, from each leg, whoever filled them up previously thats iff its ever been done before, according to the book it should be 9.5 ounces, 4.5 ounces is what should be in the back shocker, got new wheel bearing and dust seals to fit, but ive misplaced the tool, i thought i used it on bobs bike, but we didnt do the bearings, theres everychance i got nicked when my shed got robbed, so i may have to go to the bike shop and grovel to them to borrow theres



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GØSVH......radio amateurs do it with frequency and sometimes all night.

if at first you don't succeed........GIVE UP !!
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 Posted: Thu Jan 14th, 2010 05:39 pm
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derek hendry
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good find on the speedo and the front fork oil, i know some of the bikes have a diferent amount of oil in on each side, something to do with the anti dive do dah.



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2004 1800 in fridge White
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 Posted: Sat Jan 16th, 2010 04:09 pm
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EDDIE W
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went to the bike shop yesterday and there was no mechanics working so i did it myself once i got the big spacer kinken enough to get a drift in, got the forks done, i now have 1200 progressive in, got around to the steering stem also, the nut wasnt even tight,it unscrewed with no effort at all, so i knocked out the top racer and bottom bearing, and refit new bearings and bottom oil seal, made a tool for the stem nut out of a small piece of angle iron, bob called around earlier, he's chuffed that he got is bike out finally, i'm going to put the old 1500 fork springs in his 1200 once i'm satisfied my suspension is ok, he needs a new fork stantion, so when he gets that i'll do the spring at the same time



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GØSVH......radio amateurs do it with frequency and sometimes all night.

if at first you don't succeed........GIVE UP !!
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 Posted: Sat Jan 16th, 2010 06:14 pm
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gogs11uk
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Good on you Eddie. Gives you a lot of satisfaction doing it yourself



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Gordie & Fiona

Support the Help 4 Heroes charity by supporting the 3 peaks challenge and donating what you can.
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thanks
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 Posted: Sat Jan 16th, 2010 06:23 pm
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derek hendry
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Been a busy Bee Eddie



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2004 1800 in fridge White
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 Posted: Tue May 18th, 2010 05:37 am
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vtxcandyred
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A bit of a heads up when replacing the fasteners, still use a nickel graphite grease because of electrolysis.

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